Traditional Ethiopian Food in a Cosmopolitan Setting – The New York Times

The light bulbs are yolk-yellow, painted with black-dot eyes and Edvard Munch-like mouths, alternately anguished, dopey, malevolent and cackling. They look like tethered yellow ghosts, sitting on a shelf behind the counter at Benyam, an Ethiopian restaurant that opened in July in Harlem.

The food here is traditional, beautifully so, unchanged in spirit from the childhood dishes remembered by the restaurant’s owners, four siblings from Addis Ababa, the Ethiopian capital. But the dining room is coolly cosmopolitan, crowded with street art by luminaries such as Meres One (those troublemaking light bulbs) and Korn (his signature bubble letter K). From Invader, a French éminence grise of the graffiti world, there’s a poster inscribed “To Benyam, the best Ethiopian cuisine in NYC.” […] CONTINUE READING

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